Expedition Stoked (Y2015 Summer XP2)

BASIC INFORMATION

Trek: Y2015 Summer XP2

Date: 2 - 12 August 2015

Location: Stok Kangri, Ladakh, India

Elevation: 6,153m

Duration: 10D9N

BRIEF ITINERARY

Day 0

SG - Leh, India

Day 1

Tour of Leh Town

Day 2

Tour of Leh Town

Day 3

Martselang

Shang Sumdu

Day 4

Shang Sumdu

Shang Phu

Day 5

Shang Phu

Shang La High Pass

near Gangpoche

Day 6

Near Gangpoche

Matho Phu

Day 7

Matho Phu

Matho La High Pass

Stok Base Camp

Day 8

Summit Push

Rest

Day 9

Stok Base Camp

Mankarmo/Changma La High Pass

Stok Village

Celebration Dinner

Day 10

Leh Airport

SG Home sweet Home!

This year, the Trekking Exco revamped its slogan to “Attitude for Altitude”. In line with this new goal, Expedition Stoked set its sights on climbing Stok Krangi in India. Stok Krangi is located in the state of Jammu and Kashmir, the northwestern most state of India. Its summit stands at 6153m, and is the highest peak of the Stok range in the Himalayas.

This expedition was truly memorable, to say the least. So many things happened that made each and every day an adventure to be remembered. At the end, all that really matters is that the 12 of us emerged stronger, each with a slightly different version of an amazing story to tell.

Day 0

Flight from SG – KL Flight from KL – DEL Flight from DEL – LEH

Day 0 was spent purely on travelling from Singapore to Leh, via three different flights. At 1pm, friends and family bade us farewell at Terminal 2 of Singapore Changi Airport and wished us well. There, we also had a small surprise celebration for Charlie’s birthday, which fell on the very day—a lot of scheming and running around for a lighter was involved as Kenny (Team Leader) tried to lengthen his ‘briefing’.

2 Birthday Boys – Charlie and Kenny!

Then, we were off! The first flight from Singapore to Kuala Lumpar was smooth and everyone was still energetic. However, by the time we arrived at Indira Ghandi International Airport, all of us were exhausted. Many grabbed some precious shut-eye at the airport chairs while the rest hobo-ed in the terminal for the six-hour wait. Finally, we caught our last flight from Delhi to Leh, Ladakh at 5am local time, dreary eyed and desperate for a good rest.

Day 1

We’re Here!!!

Baggage fit for a King

First group shot in Leh

Arriving at Leh gave everyone a new burst of energy. After clearing local customs with no hiccups, 3 small vans picked our massive baggage and us up from the small airport and off we were towards Alimjan guesthouse!

One of the rooms at Alimjan Guest Hose

After putting everything down, we headed to Chopsticks Noodle Bar for a refreshing and sumptuous lunch. There, we had the first taste of some local food, which was largely Tibetan-style. The food was good, and the atmosphere was comfortable.

Here, it was decided that Max would be the Food Critic/Food in-charge, thanks to his discerning palate and good taste. Everyone then the opportunity to try out, and critique, Ben Seow’s X-men style sunglasses.

Antics at Chopsticks Noodle Bar

Following lunch, the shopping spree ensued. Some members of the team bought postcards to write to friends and family, while others learnt the value of hard bargaining upon trying to buy equipment. Suddenly, so many more of us were conversing in Mandarin Chinese, trying to cut the best deal!

The Leh supermarket, Trekker’s Paradise!

Our shopping was cut short slightly sooner than expected as it started to drizzle, and everyone became kancheong spiders making their last purchases. We then hurried back to Alimjan Guesthouse, passing dozens of stray dogs and bulls (yes, bulls!) along the way. Dinner was cooked in-house, consisting of chicken, naan, vegetables and rice. A few team members weren’t feeling too well, and Kenny, our Team Leader, decided to call it an early night.

Walking around Leh Town

Day 2

The day started at 8am with a good breakfast of toast, omelettes and jam. Our second day was focused partly on acclimatizing and understanding the local culture and history better. The first tourist spot we visited was Shanti Stupa, a Buddhist white-domed stupa on a hilltop. It was built in 1991 and gave us our first panoramic view of the surrounding landscape, and despite the drizzle we were all in a good mood. However, at 4267m, we all realized how much harder it was to climb without panting.

Shanti Stupa, a white beauty

Next, we headed to Leh Palace, a formal royal palace built in the 17th Century. The 9-storey wonder is Leh’s dominant structure and architectural icon and provided us with a bird-eye view of Leh from above! All of us explored the palace like 5 year olds in a maze, surprised by the number of hidden rooms and balconies the palace had to offer. Needless to say, we took so many photos that one would wonder if we had come to see the palace or have a photoshoot.

Panoramic view from Leh Palace

Mandatory act cool shot

Finally, we visited the Hall of Fame, a military museum where some members fell asleep watching the locally produced documentary.

Lunch was a massive Carbo-loading affair Crossroads Café. This was a hidden gem recommended by one of our drivers, located near the fringe of the central city. The portions were HUMONGOUS, and even our food hero Xijie admitted it was a challenge (and still finished it!). We all practically emerged champions of a carbo contest, and headed back for more shopping in Leh Market.

Lunch at Crossroads Cafe

Along the way, Lynette and Felicia coincidentally met one of their old teachers from Junior College, and had a brief but heartwarming reunion while listening to his recount. Apparently, their team’s departure had to be delayed by a full day due to a flash flood. That was the beginning signs that the roads weren’t faring too well further upstream, but we didn’t think too much about it at that point in time.

Mountains reunite people from all over the world

Dinner was a quick and simple affair at Dreamland Restaurant (touted by Tripadvisor as being the best!) before we rushed back to Alimjan Guesthouse. There, we had a pre-trek briefing by Piru (from Ladakh Eco Adventures) and Kenny, then met the guides,

helpers and cooks who would be leading us on the trek.

Packing madness ensured. According to Piru, it would be ideal for every buddy pair to share a single duffle bag on the trek; suddenly, the previously massive Eagle Creek Duffle Bags seemed ‘too small’. In teams of 4, everyone crosschecked that all equipment was accounted for before buddy pairs proceeded to shove, stuff and squeeze everything into the duffle bags.

Day 3

Martselang to Shang Sumdu

Reveille was at 6.30am, with everyone fully packed and ready to leave. We left the guesthouse in 2 vans, enthusiastic and eager about what was in store. Along the way, the landscape around us was stunning. Mountain ranges stretched from afar, all differing in height and form. The vans slowed as we came to Martselang and there, we heard the news – further upstream, the bridge was possibly destroyed. Vehicles would not be able to cross if that were true, but no one knew for sure at that point. Our guide, Sonam, asked us to wait as he checked out the road ahead.

Waiting with a herd of ponies

It was 2-3 hours before he returned and confirmed our fears; the bridge had indeed been destroyed by the flash floods from the day before. (Recall: Lynette and Felicia’s teacher!) Our expedition would have to be extended by a day to accommodate the additional trek from where we were (Martselang) to Shang Sumdu (the original starting point of the route). Despite the news, however, our spirits were still high and driven by anticipation. Within 10 minutes, we did a classic ‘Stoked!’ cheer, and then we were off.

And we’re off; the only time there were roads on the trek

The weather was constantly changing that day. One minute, it would be drizzling and the next, the sun would be scorching. Midway, we had to stop to wait for our horses and ponies to catch up with us—a 10 minutes wait that ultimately became 2 hours. We entertained ourselves with lunch, sleep and rock throwing until our ponyman arrived with his trail of horses.

Napping along the river, starring Ben Seow

Finally, we reached Shang Sumdu at 5pm and settled in to have tea and biscuits. 10 minutes into teatime, however, our rest was cut short by…

A flash flood! Without any warning, the (what we thought was light) drizzle caused the stream nearby to overflow, and muddy water was spilling onto our camping grounds. Akin to scuttling children, we all scrambled out of the cozy dining tent to save our duffel bags and trek bags from the flood. All with the exception of Ben Seow and Kenny, who found it more imperative to film a commentary of the ensuing chaos. Soon enough, with the help of Sonam (our guide) and the helpers, we had dug out trenches around the tents to channel the water away.

The view from Shang Sumdu

Dinner came after that, and the night sky was beautifully clear. Stars and constellations like the Big Dipper were visible with the naked eye. Such an unrivalled night sky could never be seen in Singapore, and the team marveled at the view before going to sleep.

The night sky

Day 4

Shang Sumdu to Shang Phu

Morning preparations

Breakfast started at 730 with oatmeal, omelettes and toast before we warmed up as a team. And off we went towards Shang Phu camp! This would turn out to be one of the most eventful days of the trek. A few hours after we began trekking, we came to a relatively shallow river. To save time, Sonam took it upon himself to Piggy-back the entire team across the river, one heavy trekker and his/her backpack at a time.

Sonam with Spencer on his back

When we reached the next two river crossings, however, it was clear that no piggy-backing was going to be possible due to the sheer strength of the current and depth of the river. For both crossings, Sonam and his helpers set up a rope stretching across the river while the team changed out of trek shoes into sandals. Then, one by one, we would grip onto the line for dear life as we tried not to get swept downstream. Funny enough, things were even more interesting as we had to throw our trek shoes and sandals across the river.

River crossings were almost a daily affair

One of Shu Jun’s shoes got wet as Terence failed at Frisbee, and thanks to Sonam it was caught before being swept away. Then, as luck would have it, one of Leah’s sandals was washed downstream after Shu Jun’s throwing arm only cleared one of her sandals across the stream! Everyone took the matter light-heartedly, had a good laugh, and order was restored. (Kudos to Shu Jun and Leah for being such a good sport!)

Later that day, we reached Shang Phu camp, 4300m above sea level. A few didn’t feel all too well; some were suffering from bad headaches while others were vomiting. With the altitude, getting a good night’s rest that night proved to be difficult for some as well.

Day 5

Shang Phu – Shang La High Pass – near Gangpoche

The morning started off on an extraordinary foot: One of the cows invaded our shit tent and was having a feast. Leah couldn’t stop laughing at the ridiculousness of the situation after she found herself face to face with the (probably satisfied) cow. Breakfast again was at 7.30 with oatmeal, tea, omelets, cereal and toast. Appetite was low, however, as a few team members were feeling unwell.

The breakfast table every morning

From Shang Phu, we set off to Shang La high pass, which had an elevation of about 4960m. The walk up was steep and arduous, especially for those suffering from headaches. We felt for the first time the real effect of climbing at such altitudes and wheezed the entire way. Madam Guide Felicia (chimed by Sonam) led the pace for the climb up, and we moved approximately 100 steps each time before taking a 30 second break. After about 3 hours, we reached the top of the pass and were buffeted by strong, chilly winds.

9th Trekking Exco represent

The Expedition Stoked organising committee looking swag

On the way down, Kenny had to fight an internal war after touching a plant on Lynette’s request (Lynette: “Kenny, does it smell good?”). The plant, like poison ivy, causes itchiness and pain on contact, and he was really suffering.

Catching a breather along the way down

At around 3.30pm, we arrived at our campsite near Gangpoche and settled down for some tea. Then, at 4.30pm, we left the camping grounds for an acclimatization walk up the nearby hill. At 4600m, the air was definitely much thinner than before, so the walk served to get our bodies accustomed to exerting at altitude.

Acclimatization walk up the nearby hill

And then came the highlight of the day. Our camping grounds were invaded. We watched in amazement and horror from atop the hill as over 300 goats and cows descended onto our campsite, unabashed. We couldn’t help laughing at the entire situation; it was both unprecedented for all of us Singaporean kids and hilarious to watch! We could see our chef constantly chasing away the brave goats that would venture into the kitchen tent, swinging his arm or a pot. The goats and cows left behind a wake of destruction in the form of fresh poop, all around the campsite.

The Invasion

Day 6

Near Gangpoche to Matho Phu

Breakfast was yet another simple affair, this time with extra pancakes. This was the shortest day of the expedition. We trekked from our camping site near Gangpoche to Matho Phu (4700m), at the base of our second high pass. After discussing with Chandan and Kenny, the guide decided that based on the team’s overall condition, a short day would be better for everyone to get more rest.

Group shot along the way

At Matho Phu, everyone took the opportunity to rest up. Xijie even whipped out his book and sat at the dining tent reading. That wise man.

It was also on this day that we found out Terence is actually Santa’s helper in disguise. He was caught in full elf-dress, sneaking around the tents with a sheepish look on his face. Lynette then hauled out a huge plastic bag and there we had it— our very own Santa and Elf duo!

Santa and the Helper

The day was extra special because it was Kenny’s birthday as well. As the Overall In-charge of the trek, he had put in utmost effort in planning and executing the expedition. We wanted to repay him as best as we could with: blindfolding, compulsory prickly heat application, a cake made especially for his birthday, and a birthday wish. Whoever said birthdays couldn’t be celebrated in the midst of an expedition?

Happy Birthday, Kenny!

Day 7

Matho Phu – Matho La High Pass – Stok Base Camp

This turned out to be the longest and one of the most exhausting days of the expedition, lasting for over 9 straight hours of climbing up and down Matho La High Pass then climbing up to the base camp. After conquering the first high pass, it was less mentally draining to climb Matho La—albeit not any easier.

Matho La High Pass – near the top

The climb was filled with heaving and panting, and little chitchat, but everyone had a steely resolve to reach the top. Despite respite from the previous day, trekking from Matho Phu to Matho La High Pass took over 5 hours due to the sheer steepness of the pass. Compounding the difficulty was the fact that some of our team members were suffering from throbbing headaches or crippling stomachaches. Nevertheless, we pushed on. And finally, we were there.

Team photo at Matho La High Pass

After the steep descend down Matho La, we soldiered on all the way up to Stok Base Camp. Most teams stop at Mankarmo campsite for a day before climbing up to the base camp, but our spare day had been used up for the extra distance at the start. We needed to reach the base camp, today.

Our first glimpse of the peak

Along the way, we caught the first glimpse of the Stok Kangri summit from afar, and this rejuvenated our team. The journey up to Stok Base Camp was also dotted by occasional motivational messages painted onto boulders that reminded us of why we were here. The day felt excruciatingly long and our pace had slowed drastically, but we pushed on.

And finally, at 6pm, we arrived at Stok Base Camp. We were greeted by an impressive sea of colorful tents, seemingly idyllic against the mountain ranges beyond them. It was almost therapeutic to see the sheer number of tents surrounding us—especially when everyone shared a common purpose coming here

A sea of colours!

Motivational rocks along the way

Day 8

Summit Push – Rest

Just a few hours after we arrived at Base Camp, it was time to prepare all the necessary equipment for the summit push. Administrative matters were settled as permits had to be purchased for those trying for the summit. Ultimately, 8 decided to go for the summit push, while a third of the team chose to remain at Stok Base Camp for differing reasons.

Night preparation ongoing

At 1am on the 10th of August, the team roused and gathered in the dining tent to prepare for departure. Those who had decided not to go for the summit push made it a point to assist with all the preparations; filling water bottles, packing lunchboxes, putting on the mountaineering boots and gaiters for the rest. The mood was a mixture of excitement and nervousness at the journey ahead, and everyone was unusually quieter.

Close to 2am, and the time had come to leave. The team gathered close together in the freezing night and put our hands together, like always. In that moment, in the quiet of the surrounding lands and mountains, we gave thanks to each other for all the support that had been shown thus far. Not many words were spoken but most things didn’t have to be said out loud. At that point, we all knew in our hearts that we had already come so far as a team. Wishing the 8 all the best, they set off and the rest headed back to the tents to sleep or chat.

The summit push was undoubtedly excruciating. For the first 2-3 hours, everyone was silent in the pitch-blackness and kept their headlamps focused on the footsteps of the person in front of them. Left foot, pant, right foot, pant, and repeat. For Charlie, Shu Jun and Ben Seow, their heavy and bulky mountaineering boots compounded the difficulty of the already steep climb.

The second part of the journey was especially treacherous. On one side of the path, there were 100-metre slides into thin glacier ice, which would break under our weight. It was another 2 hours before the sun started to rise and visibility improved. The first rays of light illuminated the surrounding glacier and we could now see what lay ahead of us. We followed the tracks in the glacier to reach the base of the slope, taking about an hour to cross it.

The first rays of sunlight

By this time, it was about 5-6am. Everyone was exhausted, but many more challenges lay ahead. Sonam told everyone to put on our crampons, and we started to climb.

At the 5500m mark, it was decided that we had to turn back. Given the time of day and our progress, it was unlikely we would reach the summit without having to risk our lives on the melting glacier. On the journey back, Sonam kept telling us to hurry, as it wasn’t safe. At first, no one truly comprehended the extent of the situation. Not until the ice broke beneath Charlie’s feet and his boot hit the water underneath. We all got pretty self-conscious after that moment and started treading lighter and faster across the fast-melting ice.

Kenny and Charlie striking a pose before turning back

By 10am, everyone was back at the Base Camp, utterly spent. Spencer was the first to arrive back at the tents with a half-stoned look on his face, and a big grin. One by one the rest followed with the same dazed expression (except for Xijie, always going strong). Ben Seow and Terence returned with the guides supporting them, as their reserves were completely exhausted on the return. The whole day was spent resting and recuperating from the ordeal, and then it was time to return back to civilization.

We realized something— “The summit is not everything.” –Chandan, 2015.

Day 9

Stok B.C – Mankarmo/Changma La High Pass — Stok Village – Celebration Dinner

Towards the end.

Breakfast on the last day of the trek was glorious. Charlie opened his secret stash of ikan bilis to complement the plain porridge that was served. Chandan also whipped out his can of Spam luncheon meat, which we had the chef stir-fry it to crispy deliciousness, and his cans of Tuna were gobbled up with the porridge. It was a long journey back down, all the way from Stok Base Camp to Stok Village. We descended over 1500m in a single day, which meant a lot of extra breath to create an in-house choir and take lots of pictures. Popular hits and Disney songs were echoing down the valley almost the entire way.

High pass during descent

Even on the descent, there were several high passes left to conquer. We made it a point to document each one with a team photo, commemorating the final battles of the journey.

The last high pass of the expedition

The view on the descent was also breathtaking. Vertical cliffs and valleys rose from the ground sharply, and rivers flowed between them. Without our eyes fixated on the route, enjoying the view became much more manageable.

Close to the endpoint, everyone became quiet as we soaked up our surroundings and appreciated everything that had happened. At around 4pm, we finally arrived. We gathered to consolidate tips and take a final team photograph with our guide, helpers and cooks before leaving in the waiting vans.

Final team shot, with guide and helpers

That night, we celebrated the end of a great expedition, our achievements, and our joy with a glorious dinner (plus many drinks). Kenny was so drunk at the end of the night and we all had a good laugh at his dedication as a leader despite being half gone! Leah’s steak was so hard and she ate almost nothing of it, spending more time sawing at it and giving it away instead. In all, it was a perfect night with perfect company.

Day 10

Home sweet home.

Our last day was spent flying home. We roused at 5am to make our way to Leh Airport, feeling nostalgic about leaving such a beautiful place. At midnight on the 12th of August, we touched down in Singapore, tired but happy. Kenny gave a final speech to the team, and then we left with our families.

It didn’t matter to us that we had not reached the summit. Blindsided by a singular goal at the start, it was only along the way that we learnt the true value of experience. The mountain would always be there, but we ourselves forged the memories and friendships that had been created along the way. That could not be traded for the world.

Certainly, this expedition was challenging for all of us, and everyone fought a slightly different battle. Whether it was Altitude Mountain Sickness, diarrhea or sheer exhaustion, all of us had to face a unique struggle along the way. Everyone has something to be proud of and something to keep for themselves forever.

Undoubtedly, this log does not capture many of the moments and irreplaceable recollections that happened on the expedition. However, it is written in the hopes that all future expeditions will bear in mind an important value; the encouragement of your teammates triumphs in the hardest times.

This expedition will stay with us for a long time. Conditions favored us the entire way, despite nature’s unpredictability. We had ideal weather most of the time. We met people from all walks of life who were happy to share their words of inspiration with us. We had the best chef in town to keep our tummies warm and happy.

But everything else, we created along the way. We created camaraderie and team spirit; humor and entertainment; conquerors and champions.

We created memories to last us a lifetime.